Tripods for the Amateur Videographer

Whether you are using a simple Flip pocket-sized camcorder or a large professional video camera, it is very important that you choose the right tripod.

First, think about the weight of your video camera. If you are using a pocket-sized video camera, you likely only need a light weight tripod. There is no need to invest in the most expensive, largest tripod you can find. Rather, consider something light-weight and that you can take with you in the car on a regular basis just in case.

Second, think about where you are going to be using your video camera. Will you be inside or outside, what type of flooring or land you will be setting your tripod upon? Will you be on hard soil, gravel, pavement, rocky land, etc.? Or, will you be setting up for a concert in a large venue outside with potential rain and the crowd moving all around you?

Let's also think about how long you will be recording. Will this be a short video, one with multiple angles and more lengthy? If you are planning to move the tripod around throughout the shoot, you may want to consider a tripod that is sturdy yet lightweight. Also, consider if you will be moving the camera slightly throughout the shot or will you be able to sit back and enjoy the event?

Often times the amateur photographer or videographer buys a tripod that is large and cumbersome for a small video camera to use for family outings. So, when you are browsing through tripods to purchase, you may even want to consider purchasing more than one tripod. This is suggested if you are planning to shoot something where you need to incorporate multiple angles. This way you can set the tripods up and then simply move the video camera from tripod to tripod rather than having to reset each time you want to change the angle.

Regardless of the location of your shoot or the size of your camera, there are a very large variety of tripods for your selection. From small tripods that actually fit on your keychain to those professional tripods for very heavy professional cameras, the selection of tripods at your disposal is vast. Consider a tripod as an investment just as you did when you purchased your camera or video camera. Since some tripods will fit many different video cameras, you may be able to keep and maintain your tripod purchase for a lifetime.

Lisa Fausey is the owner of http://www.tripodspro.com/ and she knows the importance of selecting the right tripod for photography and videography. Contact her with any questions or comments.

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Summer Fun With A Digital Camera For Children

When you are on vacation, if the kids are having a great time, so are you and a digital camera can provide almost endless fun for children of all ages - even the youngest pre-schoolers! Yes, things have changed a lot since Kodak first invented the digital camera around forty years ago. Technology has come on in leaps and bounds and digital cameras for children are no different. They have developed at an incredible pace over the last few years and although they started out as little more than expensive toys, the price seems to have gone down as the quality has gone up!

The latest cameras for children will take up almost no space in your luggage but will provide your children with hours of fun. Image quality is pretty good and you can even record video on many models. Many of the models also have lots of extra features which add a whole new dimension to picture-taking, like special effects and in-camera editing. There are often interactive games to keep children amused on car or 'plane journeys or on wet afternoons (!).

The great thing about having a purpose made camera, designed specifically for children is that it is going to be able to stand up to the knocks, drops and heavy-handed operation of the controls that is inevitable with the average four or five-year old in charge. So rather than risk your own camera or cell phone if your child has shown an interest in taking pictures, for less than fifty dollars, you can get him a great camera of his own.

If you have older children or young teenagers, you are going to choose something different (and perhaps a little more expensive) than for a pre-school child but where to start with the many models available and the vast range of 'extra' features on offer? It is worse to end up with something that does not get used because it is either too complicated or 'too babyish'. That's where a really good recommendation from a friend or family member can come in handy.

If you just don't have that luxury, the next best thing is to find a review web site that gives honest and impartial reviews and isn't just giving you a sales pitch. Kids digital camera reviews is a website set up to provide just that - as well as a wealth of information on what features to look for depending on your child's age and some of the educational and developmental benefits a child can gain from learning to use a camera for himself.

From your point of view, giving your child a digital camera and teaching him to use it is opportunity for precious shared time together and also means those holiday memories can be shared with all the family when you get home, letting your own little 'David Bailey' enjoy taking center stage!

Alison Graham invites you to visit her site for information about buying a childrens camera for your children this summer, this link takes you to a page to help you find the right model for under $50. You might also be interested in looking for information about a kids underwater camera which would be perfect for that summer vacation! Please use the links supplied!

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Photography Tripods and Monopods Guide

If you have already spent a little fortune with your latest digital camera, you might ignore the need for a tripod to complete your entire photographic experience. Fine! BUT while you make a move from good to great pictures taking, best camera tripod or monopod will avoid series of blurred images and are becoming useful add-on that all photo enthusiasts should have. The choice of your tripod or monopod is to be taken seriously because they generally last longer than your camera itself. As vibration is the best enemy of every single photographer, we would like to help you select the right equipment according to your needs.

As there are hundreds of models to select from, let's first look at the benefits of tripods:
They offer ultimate camera stability and prevent blurred shoots;They enhance your macro experience;They allow long exposure in low light condition and permit imaginative effects;They accomplish very nicely when outdoors, under wet or windy conditions for landscape photography;They relieve fatigue triggered by carrying heavy weight and long telephoto lenses.

So, Monopod or Tripod?
Monopod is a single expendable leg accessory, incredibly convenient when travelling light or where space is limited. Sports or wildlife photographers will value the independence it delivers to them. Monopods are effortless and complement nicely your camera bag, however on the flip side, it will never be a stable as a tripod.
Tripod is a 3 legs equipment, supporting an adjustable central column and its customized video or photo heads. Tripods are hobbyists and pros' best companions; they are made of high quality materials and ensure rock-solid stability and efficiency.

We have listed the top 8 features to evaluate, to enable you to make your own choice.

MATERIAL

Three materials are generally used in tripods construction: aluminum, carbon fibre or basalt fiber:
Aluminium is the entry level choice, it is less expensive while being robust.
For optimum portability, newest carbon fiber tripods should be preferred. They are half as heavy as aluminium, easier to handle in cold weather and better at absorbing vibrations. The downside is the higher cost labeled to them.
Not long ago, basalt fiber have been utilised but some reviewers are concerned about durability and material robustness in the long run.

Whatever your material choice, tripod bag is an affordable and reliable way to transport and expand your equipment's life.

MAXIMUM LOADS

Choose a tripod in line with your existing digital camera kit, with heavy lenses or flashguns you may have (and/or upgrades you might consider in the future). Tripods must support a maximum loads exceeding your camera equipped with the heaviest lens and flashgun. All serious manufacturers provide a maximum loads their tripods will support. This feature become irrelevant for most DSRL camera owners unless very long telephoto lenses, large format camera or semi-professional video digital camera is used.

WEIGHT

Most tripods weight are in between 1kg/2.2 lbs and 3kg/6.6 lbs. This is an essential criteria for travellers as to avoid excess baggage allowance. For all others, consider that the heavier, the more discouraging it will be to transport over long distances.

HEIGHT

There are three heights feature you need to take into consideration:
the maximum height: which describes the overall height capability when legs and centre column are fully deployed. Note that center column introduce a lot of instability in an otherwise stable environment. Any suppliers will provide the maximum height with center column down measurement, which you have to consider in accordance to your eye level.
the minimum height: which corresponds to lower height once all legs are folded. This will become useful for those interested in macro photography or shooting at floor level.
finally, the closed length: once the tripod is collapsed and to match your bag size.

You should pay attention to the number of section legs, you will observe manufacturers offer three, four and even sometimes five legs section. The greater the number of sections, the more compact your tripod will be. On the other side, the more sections, the greater opportunity for vibration.

STABILITY

Like many things in life that's a trade-off, naturally, the heavier, the more sturdy to resist windy weather or ground vibration. On the other hand, heavy tripod will be harder to carry and lighter tripod will encourage you to use it more often. Tripods are giving superior stability in comparison to hands-shoot, now it is all about defining how stable you would like to be?

LEGS LOCKING

Your ability to open and fold back rapidly will depend on the legs locking system. You will find 3 majors alternatives for legs tightening:
tube twist grip mechanism: generally heavier, more stable and durable; mechanism can be a little difficult to operate in extreme weather condition.
spring-loaded lever action: which tend to be simpler and faster to operate but is more fragile and a little less durable as metallic components can rust overtime. Mind your thumbs!
recently, a third category surfaced with the ability, by just pulling the leg downwards, to open and lock in any position, with no screws or lever. It is be more expensive but worth the experiment.

CENTER COLUMN

This is where controversy continues among the photographers community, with every expression for strong adore or detest opinion. In general, centre column tend to transfer unwanted vibration, for what is intended to be a very stable equipment. On top of that, you should be aware that centre column will not enable low to the ground shoots. In our view, to bypass obstacle or for macro photography, they can be utilised to access tricky angles unless wind is preventing you doing so. We do recognised that suppliers have made great efforts to overcome the lack of sturdiness with their columns. We can only advise to rely on tripods legs to adjust the camera at eye level. Some options are worth having, but only on exceptional occasion!

HEAD

Note that you will find a lot of tripods with integrated head at great prizes; they have very limited use and are beneficial mainly for compact camera or occasional use. We can only advise to invest in a tripod that has a base plate and a mounting screw for an external head; moreover, with a removable head, you can upgrade your tripod in the future.

There are two major families for tripod head:
3-Way Pan/Tilt heads will permit horizontal or vertical camera orientation. They are preferred by those doing landscape, macro photography or video. They are generally supplied with one or two handles for ease in manipulation and offer exceptional stability.
Ball heads will allow 360 degrees panoramic rotation and are favorite for wildlife photographers, but not exclusively. Ball heads are greater in offering complete freedom with your movement.

We can undoubtedly recommend you to opt for the quick-release plates or bubble level indicator, as part of your tripod head selection, we found those options quite handy in our quest for the best photo shoot.

In summary... Tripods and monopods provide more stability than hands shooting and we advise to make them part of your best photography bag. We do not intend to advocate one specific supplier, but those top five suppliers remain highly regarded by specialists: Manfrotto, Gitzo, Giottos, Gorrillapod and/or Velbon. You may like to explore other cheaper alternatives but hopefully you will not have to compromise on vibration-free overall performance, robustness or flexibility. We prepared this monopod and tripod camera review with our independent hat on and this information is not favouring any manufacturer in particular.

An illustrated version of this article can be found in our web page News section. Best Photo is thrilled to be able to bring to you the easiest and most cost effective solution to buy camera and photography equipment.

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Forced Perspective - A Cool Photographic Special Effect Without Using Photoshop

As an amateur photographer myself, I know it's always great to stumble upon new funky ways to create different looks and special effects that gets me the "Awesome" response when my audience looks at my photos.

Today, I've got a really easy effect you can achieve using only your camera and your imagination.

It's known as Forced Perspective and it's one of the many creative effects that I learned about while reviewing a new book I recently acquired, by author Evan Sharboneau.

The technique, known as forced perspective; is something that you can actually do in your camera. This is not done with Photoshop or any other editing software.

You can do this method by just aligning your camera in front of the model or the main subject of the photo until they appear to be interacting with something behind them. If possible try to use the smallest aperture you can in order to increase your depth of field so everything stays in focus.

There are some really interesting examples I found in this book, like a woman holding a man in the palm of her hand. Another image had a man leaning up against the tower, which in reality was far off in the distance. Obviously, you just have to position either your subject or yourself to make sure that it aligns just the way you need it to.

A few more examples of this special effect include a pipe which appears to be twisting right out of the ground and back in again. This is all created just from lining up your lens height with the horizon while making sure that the pipe lines up perfectly.

The last example shows clouds being created from smoke coming right out of a chimney stack.

Often times photographers will inadvertently create this effect without even realizing it. Viewers will note that there's a tree growing out of a subject's head for example.

By putting some planning and creativity into your shots you'll be very pleased with how this impactful technique gets impressive results.

I personally think this method of shooting gives a very lasting message, one that is even more powerful than "double exposures" which is a technique for another article.

These techniques are well described with images and video clips at my website below.

Creative procedures like "Forced Perspective" is what takes photography to a whole higher level of both fun and creativity while definitely giving your audience a reason to remember you. This is just another of many tools you can have in your photographer's toolbox.

To learn about more techniques like this one check out my videos at: http://trickphotographyandspecialeffects.net/

Wayne Burke, an experienced Media Arts professional, invites you to increase your knowledge of photography.

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Buying a First Single Lens Reflex Camera

Getting Comfortable with a New Camera

Moving from a simple point and shoot camera to one with interchangeable lenses can be intimidating.

1. Borrow a camera. Borrow different cameras before you buy. An inexpensive point and shoot (even under $100) will take some pretty good photos. It will not give you the variety of choices that a larger and more expensive Single Lens Reflex will give you, but in the right hands, it will still take a pretty good photo. Also, small point and shoot cameras are the cameras you can take anywhere.

Try borrowing a Canon or Nikon SLR (Single Lens Reflex). Chances are you will get some free lessons in how to use it. Your computer will be able to read anything you shoot, so all you need from your friend is the camera.

Look for the number of mega-pixels. There are many factors to consider, but this is a simple way to eliminate some camera choices. Three or four megapixels are too few. For most photos you will not need more than ten. You can easily pay too much for megapixels (you can get a definition anywhere) that you do not need. Only very large prints will show much difference.

When it is time to buy, there are very few bad cameras out there. My advice is Canon or Nikon. Other companies make cameras just as good, but the two largest companies offer more choices. Also, there are more used and refurbished parts out there and more competitors who make less expensive but often good lenses for your new camera. when buying a first SLR, a used camera from some of the bigger on-line websites is a reliable and less expensive option.

You can spend a lot of money on a first SLR, but I wouldn't. Spend no more than 500 dollars. The more expensive lines are better cameras. but the chief differences are that the camera bodies will take more abuse and the cameras will do things that, right now, you do not even know are possible (you may never need to know).

There is time enough to trade up when you decide that photography is a major part of your life. Incidentally, the lens that comes with a new SLR is nearly always a good lens. It makes sense that it would be. By making so many of them, the cost can be lower, and the manufacturer does not want you to have a bad experience with a new camera. After all, you might decide to take it back and change brands.

2. To take good pictures, take a lot of them, because cost is no longer a factor.

I don't mean simply taking a lot of photographs but taking a lot of pictures of the same subject. See what works. When you can, come back to the same subject at a different time of the day, in cloudy or sunny weather, or with a different lens.

3. Crop. Very few photographs are ready to be printed. Use your computer's photo program to save a copy of the image, then begin to look for what does not help the photo. You might have a portrait of a friend standing against a wall. In the lower left hand corner is a speck of red from a poster. There is no reason that a poster could not be in a portrait, but do you want this piece of one? Is the color distracting? Does it help? Deciding to keep it in or not is a part of the photographic process.

Say, you have taken 30 photos of the same rose in your garden. Look, not for the perfect view of the rose, where the rose looks its best, but where the photograph presents the most interesting image. Maybe there will be marks on the rose. Maybe that is just fine. But maybe there is a distracting white pebble in the background. Maybe there is an insect that you do or do not want the viewer to see. Look for shadows. The more you ask yourself: do I want this? the closer you will come to a pleasing image.

4. In addition to taking a lot of photographs, most photographers use several different lenses. Try going places with one lens. True, one size does not fit all, but there is a certain freedom in being able to think: no point bothering with that, I don't have the right lens with me. Just recognizing that you want different lenses for different shots, internalizing how you feel about a photographic subject, is useful information. Any lens can take a good picture, if you know how to use it.

Switching back and forth among lenses is something you don't want to do too often. Of course, on the job or for a family picnic, you will want to. But for your own recreation and practice, avoid changing lenses as much as possible. When you do change, try to do it when dust and rain won't invade the camera body.

5. Be bold with your photo program. Not everyone needs the best and most comprehensive program, Photoshop. Certainly very few photographers need it right away. Even the program that comes with the camera or the computer offers a lot of choices. Try printing in sepia or black and white. Try different tints. Play with the light controls in the program.

You can spend a lot of money printing test photos, so scale down in size. No sense in running off 8 x 10 images for every idea you have. And recycle your photo paper. After you print a 4 x 6 of one idea, turn the paper around and use the other half for another print.

Enjoy your new camera.

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Top Digital Cameras For 2012

Digital cameras continue to advance as time goes by. Manufacturers compete against each other the reason why they make it a point to add more features to their new models. The upgrade takes place in just a short time so it's worth educating yourself about the brands and the features you want in a camera.

For 2012, the survey results are out as to which brand is on the Top 5. Canon is the winner according to Sortable, an online buying guide site. The results showed that a third of customers prefer to buy Canon digital cameras. Canon's share is seven percent more than Nikon which is gained a 26 percent share.

In terms of the type of camera, the Sortable survey showed that consumers differ in their choices. Of those surveyed, 36 percent wanted DSLRs, 36 percent chose point and shoot cameras while 22 percent preferred the mirrorless cameras. With the increase in preference for the mirrorless units, however, Sortable said that other manufacturers can climb up the top spot. Meanwhile, the top 5 list of Digital Camera Review.com confirmed the high rank of Canon cameras. The site's February 2012 most popular digital cameras list showed Canon's PowerShot units occupying the top three spots.

At number one is PowerShot ELPH 300 HS which features a 12.1 megapixel CMOS sensor. This new sensor aims to give the unit faster speed and improve its low light image quality. It captures quality images and videos. Another great feature is the super slow motion video mode.

On second place is the PowerShot S100, considered to be an advanced compact digital camera. Some great features of this pocket size unit include manual exposure modes, fast lens and full HD video recording. In addition to those are its smart face, blink and subject detection feature. Images can be stored in both RAW and JPEG formats.

The PowerShot SX40 HS is on the third spot. It has a 35x optical ultra zoom lens, a 2.7-inch adjustable display and high definition video. In terms of size, it is similar to an entry level DSLR but cheaper in price. Some of its best features are its image stabilization system and high speed shooting modes great for capturing fast and slow actions. This is courtesy of the DIGIC 5 chip.

Nikon's 1 J1 is in the fourth place. This small compact camera has a 10.1 megapixel sensor and has the ability to capture high definition video. It features an EXPEED 3 image processing engine that ensures a high-speed performance with a shooting rate of five frames per second. According to Nikon, this new system is the fastest autofocus by far in the world.

PowerShot SX130 IS completes the top 5 list. Some features you might like are its zoom lens, HD video, face and motion detection, smart auto and intelligent contrast correction. Added to these are the blink technology, miniature and fisheye shooting modes and stereo recording of videos.

If you'd like to change your digital camera or still contemplating about buying your first unit, this list of five units can surely guide you.

For information about camera batteries, visit 42photo.com, New York's legendary camera store in business for over 40 years.

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Nude Photography As An Alternative To Standard Portraiture

Most people have the misconception that portrait photography means sitting on a stool in front of a camera. Many associate it with the concept of taking a passport or yearbook photo. While there are still people who think this way, photographers are moving forward by introducing new twists to such a classic and simple concept.

A picture is worth a thousand words, and photographers are finding new ways to capture moments through portraiture. A good photograph is priceless. It speaks volumes of who you are as a person when taken beautifully and artistically. It has the power to encapsulate a moment in time and immortalize every subject. Here are illustrations of the two most popular types and ways you can make them more special.

Single

Individual portraits are perhaps the most common and popular of the bunch. Everyone needs a good photo and this is the best way to do it. Getting one is a great idea especially for momentous life events like graduations or winning a competition.

Portrait photography is also the choice of many parents who wish to have mementos of their kids as they grow older. Some even go to the extent of getting them taken every month (for infants and growing toddlers) or once a year. Doing so is a wonderful way of looking back and makes great keepsakes in the future. Such memorabilia are also a good idea for home decor purposes.

Spice up your pictures by bringing along different props. It is a great way of adding life to a photo and showing off who you are at a certain point in your life. Photographers might also suggest you dress up in costume, a common idea for things like high school graduation photos.

Another concept growing in popularity is nude photography. Consider this alternative especially when you are in your prime years. Taking photos in the buff is not about having the perfect body. Its goal is to expose who you are as a person with no inhibitions. It can also give life to the definition of a portrait being an "artistic representation" of a person.

Nude photography captures your every essence by revealing who you are without all the different layers covering you - the clothes, the makeup, and whatever accessories you use. It is the most genuine expression of who you truly are as a person.

Couples

Portrait photography has the power to capture the special and unique bond between two lovers. It is a common way of celebrating love; and it works not only for romantic couples but for others as well. Couple portraits work whether it is with you and your mom, dad, sibling, child, or anyone you want to be with. Outdoor settings are always a great idea for these photos. It allows you to be more relaxed and carefree - that, and because candid shots sometimes work best for these kinds of pictures.

Nude photography can also work if you are taking the photo with a romantic partner. It is the best way of proving your devotion for each other and showing how comfortable you are. Shoots inside a studio are the best ways to go about it if you are interested in the concept. It allows you and your partner to be intimate to capture a more sensual and beautiful portrait.

Kacie Wilson is a photography student interested in nude photography and portrait photography.

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Jewelry Photography Basics

Jewelry photography is a specialty style of photography. Most people will use a lightbox, or tent which is simply a cube that is build up of translucent material shaped in a cube. The translucent material is used to diffuse hard light to avoid harsh shadows. But usually what you end up with is super low contrast flat lighting. This style is most popular with catalog style photography. But if you are looking to create a stunning photo of a piece of jewelry you are going to have use a different method to create a "beauty" shot as they call it in the industry.

Chose a background color, or texture to enhance the photo. For the color you can use a contrasting color from the stones. Avoid similar colors and tones as the stone or color of the gems. For texture, a granite tile works pretty good. Or some stones, bamboo, and even some props can help enhance the photo to create a scene and something more visually appealing than your boring white background.

Instead of using all softbox light, throw in some hard light to hit stones and make them really pop. A photographic bling if you will. Mirrors or silver reflectors can be used as your hard light source as well.

The second most important part of jewelry photography is depth of field. You want to get the most focus out of the shot as possible. Usually using a small aperture will do the trick. Remember not to zoom too far in as that will also kill your depth of field. More than likely you want a lens that has macro capabilities. This way you can get as close as possible to the object with your camera, keeping you from having to zoom in and lose your deep of field (dof).

White balance is another big concern when it comes to jewelry photography, especially with gold. If you don't have your white balance set correctly your gold will more than likely come out a brownish color and tone. If you come across this issue you know that you have too much blue or green in your color, and should adjust accordingly. Usually setting up a white card in the beginning of the shoot is a good idea. And you can reference that for you source of white point. Exposure is also important to keep your gold jewelry from turning brown. Check your histogram to make sure you are at proper exposure.

Craig Smith is a Dallas Jewelry Photographer. Specializing in advertisement style photography, and shoots product photography in Dallas for catalogs, retail, online stores and more.

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Taking Better Photos - 3 Easy Photo Tips Anyone Can Use To Capture Great Pictures

My very first camera was given to me as a gift way back in the eighth grade. It was a simple but efficient device, and I quickly learned about taking better photos and capturing some really good shots by employing a few simple techniques. Later I would sometimes apply some easy tricks to make my shots even more interesting. I became a creative photography enthusiast and get into it even more today, thanks to digital photo techniques and equipment. I would like to share three easy photo tips you can use to ramp your photos up a few notches. Pros already know this stuff, but if you are a beginning photographer I think you will find them very helpful. These photo tips are not hard to remember. In fact, you'll soon automatically use them every time you prepare for a shot, even without thinking about it.

Create an environment free of clutter. This might mean removing some books on a table or clearing away dishes for example. You want to make sure the viewer's eye goes straight to the subject of your photo and not to a bunch of stuff that clutters up the scene. I have seen many lousy pictures that could have been very good if only the junk had been removed. This is a basic requirement for taking better photos. Unfortunately, most beginning photographers don't give it much thought. So remember - get the junk out of the shot.
Turn on your flash. I learned this photo tip from a professional photographer at an early age. It is almost always a good idea to use the flash, even when taking outdoor shots in natural light. Here's why - it helps fill in shadows and even the lighting on and around your subject. If you have a digital camera it will be easy to experiment with this technique. Try the same shot with and without using flash. I think you'll agree the result is much improved with the flash turned on.
Keep your subjects close. Don't make the beginner's common mistake of lining up some people against a building or landmark, then moving back in order to capture both the people and the building. Instead, pull the people close to you and leave the structure in the background. This photo technique will result in a picture that provides a good view of the people and whatever it is behind the people that is important to the overall shot. I see tourists make this mistake all the time. They'll tell their subjects, "go over and stand by that building". The result is tiny people who get lost in the big picture. I think you will be pleased with the result if you simply pull the people closer to you. Try it a few times and see what you think.

Experimenting these days is easy thanks to digital technology. No more wasting film! If you don't like the picture you can simply blow it out and try again. I hope these tips will leave you taking better photos.

It is important to know that most photo mistakes occur without the photographer even knowing that a few small adjustments can usually greatly improve the result. If you want to further develop your skills and learn how to take better photos then rest assured it is easy to do with all the resources out there.

As a photo enthusiast who is always experimenting with different ideas, tricks and techniques, Lee G Malcolm thought it would be nice to share some of what he has learned so he set up a site for that exact purpose. Find more at http://www.how-to-take-better-photos.com/

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Tips About CCTV Lens Features

CCTV lenses have a lot of different features and it is a good idea to know some of the different ones available and how they affect your surveillance system or your security cameras. So before purchasing a cctv lens for your camera, take the time to read through this and gain some insight to some of the more popular features and what they do.

Lens Types

There are few different types of CCTV lenses out there including C/CS, M12, & M9; we will be going over features and styles indicative of the C/CS mount style however, as they are the most common and applicable.

The main difference between these types of lenses that you should know about is that M9 and M12 are board type lenses used with board, miniature, and bullet style security cameras; whereas C/CS mount lenses are used on C/CS mount cameras.

Additionally M9 and M12 lenses are usually set focal length lenses, and they will have to be replaced with a new lens to have a different focal length. We will talk more about varifocal vs. fixed focal length later on.

Focal Length

To begin with when someone is talking about a lens focal length, it is related to how wide or narrow your image angle will be. The smaller a lenses focal length, then the wider the image viewing angle will be. Adversely the larger the focal length, the narrower your viewing angle will be.

Tying into focal length is fixed vs. varifocal type lenses. A varifocal lens has a range of focal lengths that it can be set at to help you get the best viewing angle for your application. A fixed length however is made to be used at one focal length and cannot be made to be wider or narrower if needed.

An example of a varifocal lens would be one advertising a 2.9mm - 8mm length; this indicates it can be set at any focal length within that range. A fixed lens would be advertised as something solid such as 4mm, 6mm, 2.8mm, etc...

Auto Iris vs. Manual

The iris is a device on your lens that determines how much light the lens will allow in, just as the iris in your eye does. In bright situations an iris needs to be smaller so as not to over expose an image; where as in dark situations the iris will be bigger to allow in as much light as possible to make a clearer image.

A CCTV lens with an auto iris feature can sense and automatically adjust its iris in accordance with how much light is present. A manual iris lens on the other hand is better in conditions where the light is unchanging, as it needs to be manually set to the correct exposure.

Auto Focus vs. Manual Focus

Just as with an auto iris, a lens with an auto focus is able to adjust its picture to gain a focus on an object automatically. This is useful if you don't mind a wide focus range, but if you want your focus to be specific on a certain object, then you will want to be able to adjust your focus manually.

There are a number of other features that lenses have, and if you are confused by any of them it may be a wise choice to consult a surveillance dealer such as Industrial Covert Unlimited before purchasing.

Christian M Gillman has worked in the surveillance industry for over 6 years. Subscribe to our monthly newsletter, learn more about surveillance, and find great products at http://www.cu1.com/

- CU1 - Your CCTV Products and Surveillance Equipment Source

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10 Easy Tips For Taking Better Pictures Everyday

Photography is a difficult art, it takes and master to achieve awesome results, but it's not difficult to take great photos and improve our technique. On-line you can find a lot of guides that will teach you how to use the camera, capture the light, compose the picture and so on. All those advices are very helpful, but I wanted to help by adding my ten tips that have helped me become a better photographer every day:

Don't buy a new camera: Yes, everybody says you need a fancy camera, but trust me, you don't. The reason is tip number 2, you need to use your camera as much as possible, so what happens if you lose your fancy new camera? And what if you forget somewhere that old one?
Take pictures: Yes, it might sound stupid, but it's not. You must take pictures everyday, and not just one. Use your commuting route as a way to focus on your environment and take pictures of it. As many as you can.
Select your best pictures: Spend 20 minutes every day to download your pictures, look at them and choose the best three.
Analyse your best pictures: What makes those three nice? What did you do to make them so good? Analyse your "success" so you can apply it the next day.
Share your pictures: Take part of an on-line community and share your pictures there. Ask for critics, advice and comments. The users are your jury and you will learn much from them.
Use the composition: Play with the pictures composition to distort the view and show what you found interesting in the spot you are picturing.
Use the light: The light is a wonderful way to hide and show objects. Play with it so you can make the interesting points stand out and hide what is meaningless for the photo.
Use a tripod: Tripods are good to hold the camera and give you time to work with your composition and lights. If no tripod is available find a spot were you can stand the camera still.
Wake up early and go to bed late: Sunshine and sunset are the best times to take photos, the sun is not up and shadows are amazing. Take advantage of it so you can play more with the picture and make details stand out.
Work, work, work: Keep focus and remember to take pictures everyday. Your technique will improve with time and you will find more and more difficult to choose your best pictures.

I really hope this tips are useful for you and that you grow, day by day, to become a better photographer. Thanks for reading!

I'm John Scott-Adams, I love pictures, mines and from others. So I choose daily a city picture to share with the readers of my blog thecitypictures.net.

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By Masking Photos, Unwanted Objects Can Be Removed

Often digital pictures are shot thinking that they have a self correcting technique. And then afterwards one realizes the problems that have occurred. And quite often the photographer feels that many unwanted objects need to be erased. He wishes they were never there in the first place. In earlier times such pictures would land up in the dustbin. But now the editing techniques help to improve such pictures. By masking photos unwanted objects can be removed and bring back a smile on the one who has shot the pictures. With the improved picture quality, the value increases and the hard work is still appreciated. So let's explore some techniques of masking photos that can be done quickly.

Many editing software support multiple features that can prove to be useful. Editors have many ways to deliver dynamic and stunning images using them. Normally when one speaks of removal of objects it often refers to people who should not be ideally in the frame-in front or behind. In public places when pictures are taken, often passer bys and others staring are captured by the camera. They can be extracted or masked with the help of transparent layers and parts of the background be replaced.

Imagine there is a picture taken at the park with a person sitting on a bench. But the branches of a flowering tree are obstructing the light and also showing the people in the background. Once this picture reaches the editing desk, the editor has the following options:

1) To extract the unwanted objects (people) and the branches of trees. It would mean that a part of the sky and topography will be erased. This will reveal the person sitting on the bench with more clarity.

2) If we consider that this is a GIMP picture, then a part of the picture can be easily restored. This is the part that is hidden using the resynthesizer plug in. This technique is also adapted in Photoshop the more popular software also. The editor is able to rebuild the sky, the parts of the tree (removed when the objects have been masked with layers).

3) The masking process is just the same. Once the areas are earmarked the lasso tool can be used to wrap it for deletion. The movable dotted line previews the areas for masking before the layer is made.

4) IN GIMP, the smart removal selection is the feature used. In Photoshop the layer menu chalks out the masking area.

5) If the entire background needs to be removed then another picture with similar lighting is used. This will help to create the new background in place of the unwanted objects.

Masking photos is another way of recreating a new story of the picture. In no way does it take away anything from the original picture. Rather it helps to accentuate and makes the picture more dynamic. There is no harm in removing an unwanted object or inconsistent background, when there are techniques available to make the picture more artistic.

Atiqur Sumon
Chief Executive, DTP & SEO Expert at Outsource Experts Ltd.
Photo Retouching
Retouching Technique

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"Trick Photography and Special Effects" by Evan Sharboneau - A Closer Look

I don't normal do reviews, but I wanted to in this case. "The Trick Photography Book" written by Evan Sharboneau is an in depth and interesting book. In fact I absolutely loved it. It is sure to educate photographers of all stages on the method to get those special effects photographs. Even for those that may have never picked up a camera in their lives or are using uncomplicated cameras many special effects can still be done. The book even offers to assist photo enthusiasts in a simple and very easy to understand way.

I liked its methods, approaches and was delighted to read the whole book from front to cover. Evan has done himself proud. There is a wealth of information in the book that all photographers, regardless of stage and level, should grab themselves a copy of this book.

Long Exposure Effects and Light Painting

Setting the Shutter Speed

Setting the Aperture

Setting the ISO

Setting the White Balance

and Generic Common Settings for Light Paintings

These just a few of the countless things you will come across in the book. There is so much more I can;'t possible list everything here now.

Evan is very clever. He talks a lot about lighting and other wonderful photography techniques you can create in the post processing end of your photography. In other words, at the end of your photo creating. I liked the way he went into detail and defined how everything works mutually, from start to finish, to create your final photograph. Lighting is the key to photography and Evan covers this in great detail.

When you first open the book you are hit with a enormous table of contents.

It feels a little much to begin with because the info he provides is so big. He not only goes into all the things you need to know like the best lighting, but talks about cameras, composition, software and other technical details, which he describes very easily and straightforwardly.

High Speed Photography

One of my favourite features to his book was the section High Speed Photography. Want to see what a balloon looks like when it bursts? Its high speed photography but the images look like they have been captured in slow motion. This is the section you won't want to miss. He explains all the equipment you will need (yes you can set this up at home) where to buy the equipment and how to put it all together.

The photos are outstanding. I actually felt myself getting excited by the possibility of shooting my own high speed photographs. I can't wait to try this.

Evan also covers a section on Bubbles and macro photography. The images are stunning and you are truly transported to another world by looking at them. You can generate wonderful effects, abstract photos and extremely exciting photos of close up bubbles. You see the vibrant swirls of the water across the surface of the bubble and the surreal patterns look like something out of a fantasy book.

Photographing smoke is also in the book, fortunately. I am thankful because I get so many photo enthusiasts asking me how to shoot smoke. Now I can refer them to Evans book. I love this part a lot. He talks about the lighting, things to use as backdrops and what you need to precisely capture smoke and produce interesting and amazing patterns. You don't have to use cigarette smoke; you can also use the smoke from an incense stick.

Recommendation- Final Assessment of the ebook

I have been a photographer for a lot of years. I know how hard it can be when you are first starting out to not only take good photos, but particular effects. Evan makes this course of action easy, enjoyable and really enlightening. I highly recommend this book. I am recommending it to all my clients who learn about photography.

It's easy to learn from and fun to create your first special effects photos. I recommend getting yourself a copy of the book. It's worth $97 but I seriously think he should be asking for twice the price. It's worth so much more than it's current outlay. It just shows the generous nature of the author.

Amy Renfrey

Amy Renfrey is a professional photography and photography teacher. She shows you how to take the most breathtaking, brilliant and incredibly stunning photos every single time you press the shutter button, even if you know nothing about photography and have never used a digital camera before. To discover how to take good photos better than ever, visit her website today. http://www.digitalphotographysuccess.com/

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Photography Tips That Are Proven To Work

To become skilled in photography it is important to know the correct techniques to showcase your subject. Good advice will help in this regard. These tips will help you take better photographs and have people talking about your skills. Try out some of the following tips to make you photos stand out in a crowd.

To take the best photographs ensure that you have focused directly on your subject. Good camera focus is essential for good composition and perspective. When you are beginning, keep in mind what you want to take a photo of and make sure it is at the center of the picture. The background will fall into place, so do not worry about it.

If you are trying to take a picture of a child, you might just have to do it on their terms.

Kids are always on the move and this can make it difficult to get a good photograph of them. Instead of trying to get them to pose, why not take pictures of them at play.

It is possible to take fantastic pictures of everyday things. By experimenting with camera settings before you get to your location you will have a great idea how the different settings can give your shot a makeover.

No matter how much experience, taking photographs of food is never easy. Food tends to shift, melt, wilt, and various other different things. Prepare place settings before setting up your food. When you have the lighting right, bring out the food and get the best shot but be quick.

Use natural lighting. When you are taking photos outside, make sure to use the light to your advantage, by taking the photos either late in the afternoon or in the early morning. At any other time you will get shadows and if getting pictures of people the sum may cause them to squint. Use sunlight, candlelight and artificial light to see how each affects the subject of your photographs.

As a general rule of thumb only one photo out of 20 is up to scratch, but you should keep the other 19. Keep your own personal scrapbook of your work and not just of your accomplishments is a great way you can work to get better at photography.

By changing the angle of your shot by bending or squatting down you can often get the best pictures. It is a simple fix that makes a big difference.

There isn't a secret to being an excellent photographer. Do not stop taking pictures. With each image that you capture, you gain experience. It's not necessary that you develop or keep every shot yourself, particularly with digital. The more photographs you take you will get better at analyzing the shot and work out what would make the best photo.

Use your optical zoom instead of the digital zoom when you want to photograph close-up. When you zoom in past the limit of your camera's optical zoom and change over to the digital mode the image becomes pixelated. The quality of the image can be very poor when you use digital zoom because it add pixels to the image. may want to check how you can disable this feature on your camera in your owner's manual.

Understand your flash range when in the dark. If the flash you are using does not provide sufficient light your photo could be too dark. If you are unsure how the flash works, take some pictures at various ranges.

Whenever you travel some place new, you should have a general ideas of what you like to shoot. Taking a look through postcards for sale in local shops can help you to come up with ideas of what to photo. The postcards will show images of places and subjects that people would like to see and would be a welcome addition to your portfolio.

There are times when you just have to cope with poor lighting condition, like when you are taking photos of a landscape. This is especially true if there's no good light anywhere in the landscape you want to photograph. So, what is it that you should do" You might use photo-editing software, like Adobe Photoshop, to adjust contrasting light levels.

Framing the subject in a photo is very important. Zoom in on your subject and eliminate any surrounding distractions. You can take away all of the clutter and unwanted objects in your pictures.

Shooting at eye level is a great way to connect with your subject. This lends character to the image, enhancing its visual and emotional appeal. If you are getting pictures of the kiddies, you may need to drop down on your knee to get the correct height.

A DSLR is required for all serious photographers. A DSLR is a single-lens reflex camera that is digital. These cameras are superior when it comes to viewing your subject just as the image is shot. A full-frame DSLR gives the most comprehensive photos, and the largest image sensor.

This article has given you a few tips and hints that can help you use your photography to capture special moments or subjects. With research, practice, and mindful experimentation, you can become an even better photographer.

Looking for a digital SLR camera like the Canon Rebel T2i?
See how it holds up against similar DSLR cameras here: Canon Rebel T2i Review
Compare digital SLR cameras and find the best discounts here: http://digitalslrreviewer.com/

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Mother's Day Portrait Tips And Ideas - How To Be Creative

I wanted to share some portrait ideas and tips for Mother's Day. Believe it or not, Mother's day is right around the corner and choosing the perfect gift can be extremely difficult. I always tell photographers to plan ahead and to plan this at least a few weeks before the occasion. If you can plan a couple of months ahead...that's even better. I know where talking about Mother's Day here, but this applies to any Holiday or special occasion.

Let's be clear about something here

Your job as a photographer and a marketer, is to help your clients find that special gift by offering them a unique portrait session and with Mother's day near as I wrote this...we'll use this as our example. Always remind them that this is guaranteed to be the most favorite gift she'll receive and it will last longer than a bouquet of flowers!

They can choose from a generation portrait, a family portrait, a Mommy and me session or simply just photograph the children by themselves. A beautiful portrait that captures a moment in time is a gift from the heart and will be treasured forever. But...you already know that.

Here's a couple of unique portrait ideas for inspiration!

Take a photograph of the Mother and child's shoes or capture a close-up of them holding hands. Find a meaningful quote and personalize the portrait using Photoshop or create a unique personalized collage.

Photograph a little girl playing dress-up in her mother's or her grandmother's clothing or wedding gown. The client can help you create this family heirloom portrait by bringing along their mother or grandmother's wedding gown. If they don't have a gown, they can bring a favorite dress or outfit and shoes. You can also ask them to bring any vintage hats, old family photographs or other special mementos to personalize their portrait.

Children will have a ball playing dress-up! Using their mother's or grandmother's clothing, photos and mementos makes it extra special. I recommend using a vintage trunk that the child can sit on or they may even want to climb inside. A few years back I created a portrait of our daughter wearing her great-grandmother's nightgown and was admiring her old black and white wedding photos. As you can imagine, her great- grandmother was absolutely thrilled when she received this on Mother's Day. This unique gift idea is sure to be a hit and will be cherished for generations to come.

So...I hope this gets you thinking of the possibilities that can be created by using some simple props and classic portraiture. Don't over complicate things when creating these special portraits. Just keep in mind that the Mother/Grandmothers will be thrilled to have a keepsake from their child or children.

Scott Voelker is the creator of NewPortraitBiz. He has taught 1,000's of students how to start a photography business. To receive his Free video lessons and Blog posts visit New Portrait Biz Blog.

You should also check out this Digital Portrait Idea he posted that shows you a simple technique you can use for inspiration.

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Trends In Digital Cameras

Many people are considering a camera purchase before heading out for summer travel and this may be a good time to consider the latest trends in digital cameras and how that may change your next camera purchase.

More Than Just Photos

Probably the most disruptive technological advance in digital cameras has been the fusion of video and still pictures. While you may not be ready to buy a Canon 5D MK III, a set of rails, and follow focus system, multimedia is far too big of a trend to ignore in digital photography.

Even point and shoot cameras are coming out with an amazing array of video and still photo effects and it's worth taking some time to learn about those features as some of them are nothing short of ingenious.

Instant Sharing

Many cameras are now including WiFi capability and other ways to instantly share your photos. While perhaps not as convenient as the built-in sharing inherent in devices like the iPhone 4S, several models from Canon, Nikon and Samsung offer higher resolution than a camera phone, plus wireless connectivity at a much lower cost.

Geo-tagging

GPS capability is probably one of the most fun and interesting advancements in digital photography to come along in quite a while. There are, literally, hundreds of camera models that allow you record your GPS coordinates when taking photos, some even will tell you which direction you were facing when you took the photo.

Even if your camera doesn't have built-in GPS support, there are several devices on the market to allow you to add that functionality later.

Greater Exposure Latitude

Another recent development in digital photography is the rapid advancement of lighting and exposure systems that provide amazing latitude and crisp colors. When you step up to DSLR technology there are new capabilities for wirelessly linking your camera to external flash systems that help the camera with the exposure settings.

Phone Cameras

Smartphones are changing photography, of that there is no longer any doubt. Statistics on Flickr are clear that the most popular camera is the one people already have with them. Beyond the mere carrying convenience is the ease that smartphone and cell phone photos can be shared. A couple keystrokes and your photos are instantly published on Flickr, Facebook, TwitPics or any number of other photo sharing sites or email them directly to friends and relatives.

Going forward, the greatest assets that will keep professional photographers in the game are fantastic composition, high resolution RAW photos and superior work flow. I don't see smartphones ever being good enough to overcome those advantages completely.

New developments in digital camera technology make this an exciting time to be thinking about buying a new camera. With all the options available on the market today, it's important to take a minute and reflect upon which features would be most useful for you.

You'll learn even more with Proud Photography - one of the best online photography courses available today.

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Film Photography: Why You Should Try It Out

So I'm guessing not many of you guys are using film cameras these days. The few of you who are, good for you! This dying form of photography is still magical to me. I recently got into it again, on the sideline, and I definitely believe it's helped me as a photographer in general. Knowing that you cannot get an instant preview of your image makes you concentrate harder on your composition, exposure, and all other aspects of taking a photograph. The manual SLR that I am using makes me concentrate even harder, focusing and exposing manually, and as many people have already said, thinking about a photo BEFORE you take it often results in a much better shot. In addition, using a prime (fixed focal length) lens makes you concentrate even more!

You could be using a vintage Leica rangefinder from the '50s or '60s, a Japanese SLR from the '80's or '90s, but the film medium still remains the same. Sure, the newer ones do have autofocus and auto exposure, but other than that, the basic process of using film cameras is pretty much the same. You take your shot, you finish your roll, process it, and get your prints, or as more people do these days, get em scanned. You have no idea what you've shot until afterwards

Processing your own film can also be a very fun experience, especially once you know what you're doing (and it's not really that hard, especially when processing black and white film) - it also saves quite a bit of money, as photo labs that still do film are able to charge pretty ridiculous amounts for processing and printing/scanning film

Film comes in many formats, such as 135 (35mm) film, which is the most commonly used today, as well as medium format (120, 220 etc.) which is still used today by professionals.

In this post I am going to discuss the common 35mm film, which is what I have been using, and the different types, the various brands, and other factors that would help explain to you how your photographs can actually vary (and improve) based on the film you use

First of all, there are two basic kinds of film: negative film and slide film (reversal film)

Negative film is what most of you probably have used as a kid, if at all. This film is processed into 'negatives', where your images show as an inversion of the normal image i.e. light is dark, dark is light. Negative film comes in both color and black and white. Color negatives are sometimes known as "C41" - this name comes from the most common process of developing color negative films, which is C41. Black and white film is still called...well, black and white film

Slide film (or reversal film) is the other kind of film that I mentioned. Not as commonly used every day as negative film, as far as I know, slide film is processed into color transparencies, not negatives - i.e. the developed film strip will have the same colors as the original picture, unlike negatives where the colors are inverted. This is beneficial, as you can simply hold the transparency to a light source, and view the image, albeit in a small (36x24mm frame) size. A slide viewer is a little device with a light source and a magnifying lens: simply pop in your transparencies (slides) into the device, and you see a larger version of the image - no printing or scanning required to preview your shots. As far as I know, only color slide film is being manufactured currently. The last black and white slide film was the Agfa Scala film, has been discontinued for years now - however, if you really wish to get your black and white shots as transparencies, there are quite a few methods of processing ordinary black and white negative film which develops the negative film into a positive strip of transparencies. A lot of people send their black and white negatives to a company called DR5, who specialize in this process - however, do note that this is NOT black and white slide film, but simply a process of creating transparencies from negative film

An important difference between negative and slide film is the exposure tolerance. Negative film is quite flexible, and allows incorrectly exposed shots to be fixed to a great deal. Slide film is generally not so forgiving. This makes sense when you realize that you often view slide film directly (through a slide viewer or something), where as in a negative, you have to either scan it or print it - it's in this printing or scanning process that the exposure can be fixed. Some say that slides can be exposure-corrected if you print or scan them too, while some still insist that slide film is definitely not as tolerant as negatives. However, as a general rule, remember that negative film is definitely more flexible than reversal slide film, and if you're using slide film be sure to get your exposure spot on

Please note that what I'm talking about here is not the process of pushing/pulling film in the development process. You can push or pull both slide and negative film in the development process. For those of you who do not know what this means, push processing refers to a procedure that basically alters the film process so that the resulting negative or transparency is 'over-developed', which allows the exposure of an underexposed roll of film to be corrected. Pull processing is the opposite, 'under-developing' the film to correct an overexposed roll. For example, if a photographer intentionally (or accidentally) shoots an entire roll at the wrong ISO setting on his camera, it can be corrected via push or pull processing this film roll

When I mention that negative film is flexible, I mean that once a negative film roll has been developed normally, its exposure can STILL be corrected, generally to a greater degree than slide film allows. OK, enough about that. Moving on...

...there are distinguishing features of different types/brands of film that are noticeable in your results that you will learn to see, and form an opinion over. These features would include film grain, color saturation, contrast... and would work for different types of images, as well as ruin other types of shots. Playing around and experimenting with various types and brands of film will help you realize which film to use for which purpose. Another point to note is that, unlike in digital cameras, your ISO is fixed. You choose the film speed you want, and you're stuck with it until the roll is over. So do not buy a slow ISO 100 film roll and go shooting at night!

So, looking at the variables of different films, we have:

Film grain: this is generally based on ISO - as in digital photography, where high ISO speed results in image noise, higher film speed usually results in more film grain. This is suitable for some pictures i.e. if you're looking to get a gritty street image etc. but would not work with a landscape with sky and water where you're looking for smooth clean textures. Some types of film simply handle grain better than others, so this is where using films and seeing real results helps more than just reading about the theory. For example, Kodak Ektar is supposedly the finest grain color film in the world! Having used both Ektar (ISO 100) and Fuji Reala (ISO 100), I really cannot spot the difference between the two. However, using a black and white Kodak Tri-X 400, and compared to a Kodak T-Max 400, I find the Tri-X to be noticeably grainier than the T-Max. But like I said, some grain will accentuate a photo, and improve it...do not be afraid of grain

Color saturation: obviously applying only to color film, some film has the tendency to over-saturate and give artificial, fake colors - some films give beautifully natural colors, saturated just right, and some even have a slightly laid back look to it that looks great. Of course, some look flat and dull - you can safely avoid this type of film if you feel it's flat. In black and white film too, the tones of the grays vary with each film - some have harsh tones, and hardly show any definition between black and white, while some have lovely gray mid-tones, and others have a gorgeous silvery look to the grays

Contrast: yes, contrast varies too. To me, this is especially noticeable and important in black and white film. I prefer my black and white film to have a medium to high contrast - low contrast doesn't work for me, although I've seen great examples of low contrast black and white shots. So again, experiment!

From the different types of film I've used (I've been sticking to negatives), here are some characteristics that I've noted:

Fuji Superia/Superia X-Tra (200, 400): my standard color film. Cheap, reliable, very good. I love the colors on this. Not too contrasty, not very saturated... in fact I'd say the colors are slightly laid back. Grain is fine, and for ISO 400, I would never call it grainy. For random color shots, and especially to test new cameras/lenses, this is my go-to film

Fuji Reala (100): a professional grade film, this is one of the finest grain films I've used. Colors are more saturated than the Superia, but not too. Quite contrasty, and again, beautiful fine grain. Probably my favorite C41 film

Kodak Ektar (100): another professional grade color film. I'd say the grain is as fine as the Reala, although Kodak claims this to have grain finer than any other! Great colors too, and nice contrast. Like the Reala, I'd use this for landscapes, and avoid portraits - this sort of saturation is not very flattering for skin

Kodak Portra (160, 400): as the name suggests, this color film is designed for portraits, aiming at getting skin tones right, and avoiding extra saturation while maintaining nice contrast - it works great for portraits, yes, but I wouldn't mind using it for other work too. I do not necessarily feel that I need brighter colors for landscape work, as this sort of look works too, sometimes. Always experiment, do not stick to the 'rules'

Kodak Tri-X (400): a very grainy black and white negative film, quite contrasty and a bit harsh. Not my favorite. The first roll I tried was a disaster - the tones were too strong, the mid-tones were almost non-existent i.e. black seemed to jump into white...and the grain was too much for my liking. I had a feeling that this roll was expired (I forgot to check, always remember to check!) so I went out n got another - slightly better, but still too grainy for my tastes. The texture just seemed too harsh for me. Like I said, there's a time for very grainy film too, so by no means am I gonna stop buying Tri-X

Fuji Neopan Acros (100): my favorite black and white film. The grain is extremely fine, and the grays are lovely, almost silvery, and very, very smooth. Contrast is more than average, quite perfect in my opinion. Great for people photography, as well as street shots

Kodak T-Max (100, 400): a fine grain black and white film, beautiful contrast, and very nice tones. I suggest T-Max 100 for daylight street shooting: the contrast is not too high, and the tones are dark, darker than the Neopan film that I love, but very controlled and smooth - and at ISO 100, the grain is very fine. If you want to shoot in lower light or you just want a faster film, try the T-Max 400...the grain is still pretty fine, and it's got the same features as the 100. If you want that real grainy look, try Tri-X instead

Ilford HP5 400: a high speed black n white film, by the black n white legends Ilford. It's got the 'classic' look - quite hard to explain, really. I just like it. The grain is very controlled, quite fine...medium contrast, I'd say...a very nice general purpose film

Yeah, I think that's pretty much all I've tried so far. Told you I'm new to film too. Can't wait to get my hands on some more Ilford, as well as some Kentmere, Fomapan etc.

I'll try to end this off by just guiding you guys on how to pick out some film for some random purpose...OK:

Firstly, negative or slide? If you want black and white, it's gonna be negative. For me, another deciding factor is the film speed...I prefer negatives if I'm buying film over ISO 200 for some reason...grain on slide film is just not my thing. Also, you might want to check on places that process slide film (E6) - which is not nearly as common as negative processing. If you can't find a lab that does E6 slide processing, you have no choice but negative. And lastly, but importantly, remember that rule where we say negative film is more tolerable. If you have a very accurate light meter, and you think your exposure is going to be spot on, you can go ahead with slide. But if you have any doubts, or you want flexibility, definitely go ahead with the trusty negative film

Next, of course you're gonna choose black and white or color. Nothing to explain here

Film speed! Ah, this is crucial. ISO 100, known as daylight film, is obviously for shooting in daylight. Sure, this gives fine grain, but fine grain blurry shots taken at night are not gonna look good at ALL. I'd take sharp but grainy night shots any day over the blurry fine grain ones. So know what you will be shooting, where you will be shooting, and what time you will be shooting. Shooting in daylight does not mean you ONLY need to pick a slow (50, 100) film - like I mentioned before, try shooting some grainy street shots with a high speed film. But shooting at night SHOULD mean that you need to pick a high speed (400, 800) film

Lastly, pick out a brand that either you know by experience, or have read about (here, maybe!), that has characteristics that you want for this particular shoot. Colors, contrast, saturation, sharpness, grain/speed performance, texture - depending on what you're shooting, look at these factors and pick one

And then...stick it in your camera and go shoot!

But...and there's always a but...remember that in today's photography world, film is almost always scanned. Even when making prints, your photo lab will usually scan your film and make prints out of the scans, not using the traditional and probably less convenient method of making 'wet prints' in the darkroom. What this means is that, even though you will notice characteristics of your types of film, your final output can vary quite a bit in the scanning process. A shot with rather dull and lifeless colors can be enhanced a great deal, regardless of the film type you have used, using scanning software and Photoshop. Another shot of colors that seem over-saturated or gaudy can be controlled, faded, or even made black and white!

Of course, this can be good and bad. If you're scanning yourself, this gives you greater creative control over the final image, so if you really work at your scanning process, you can end up with some great results. However, if you get them done at the lab, you're sort of at the mercy of the lab guy. For example, I rescanned a shot that I got scanned at the lab...a shot of a flower, which the lab scanned as a red flower. My scan showed it purple. To this day, I'm not sure what color the flower really was, but this shows what can be done. I can turn the flower red if I want...or leave it purple...or make it pink...I have plenty of options, really. In the end, I just want to make it look how I think it looks best. And that's what I did (I left it purple) - but that really showed me how much of a role scanning plays, and how much your final result can be changed, no matter what the film brand or type that was used

But (but, again), there's a limit to what editing your scanned film can do. You're still gonna notice the characteristics of the particular film type you used, so no matter how good your editing skills are, it's still better to get a good film that you've had good experience with when you shoot with a specific purpose - you might not always be able to fix a flat, dead image on Photoshop. If you want today's shot to have bright colors, don't go for film that you know to be rather flat or dull in terms of color saturation - it'll always be easier to get the image you're looking for if you start with the right stuff first

And with that, I will shut up about different kinds of 35mm film! Remember that most of this applies to medium format film as well. However, as I've not used medium format film cameras (yet), I have refrained from going into medium format-specific details.

This is by no means a comprehensive guide on using film - there's so much more to the complicated and beautiful art of film photography, which I shall try to cover in more detail later on. But if you're new to this, I hope this has been enough to get you excited enough to get started!

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Finding Photography Articles in a Photographer's Community

If you are a professional photographer or simply love doing it in your spare time, you have probably found that finding an online presence that will be beneficial to you and to your possible photography business is a tough job. You also want an outlet, such as a Photographer's Community, where you can learn new things about your craft by reading Photography Articles. You can always turn to old standbys, such as Facebook or Twitter; however, you will find that the best type of assistance available is through a community of like-minded individuals, such as yourself.

Workshops that you attend in person can be some of the best types of informational gatherings. Online, you can also attend these types of programs through communities for photographers. Sure, face to face is a great way to meet people and share experiences, but you can do so online just as well and with many more individuals.

You also want to find the time to interact with other professionals in your industry. Simply scouting your project to prospective buyers is not enough. Online communities, or forums, are a great environment in which to meet these individual professionals. The following are just some of the reasons that online photographer's communities are a good option.

Many of the best communities offer online storage for your photos. Find out if there are any charges and if you will have a public profile where other interested individuals can view your product. This is one of the best ways to promote your photography business.

Seek out professional forums in which there is a community critiquing program. A little bit of constructive criticism can go a long way in furthering your understanding of your craft. This can also help you improve upon the skills you already have.

Another great resource is a classified section meant just for photography enthusiasts. This is a great means of selling off old gear that you no longer require or for finding others' gear that may be of use to you. It is a good idea to purchase second hand equipment from other people that are like-minded when it comes to photography.

Photography articles are one of the best ways to keep up to date on new happenings in the world of photography. You can learn new techniques or simply keep up on what other professionals in the field are doing. You can also learn from the pros how best to run a photography establishment, as well. When seeking forums that offer this type of service, find out if you must pay subscription fees or if the information is free of charge.

Finally, this is a great way of generating new ideas for your photography business, such as techniques, landscapes, and other places for taking new photos. The main thing is that in this business you must stand out from the crowd when it comes to your particular methods and photo skills. By taking part in a forum, you will be able to get up close and personal with the people that make a difference and can get your foot in the door should you be up and coming, but great at what you do.

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New Storage Gear For Your Digital Cameras

Your most precious digital camera regardless of the type you have needs to be properly protected. This is whether you're using it or not. If you know how to use it and keep it in the right place, it should stay with you for a long time.

It is a must for digital camera owners to have a bag or case for their photographic device. There are so many brands, styles, sizes and colors available today hence, it should not be a problem looking for the right one for your gadget.

For the professional photographers and those serious in their photography hobby, there's a type of case that's ideal to have. Tenba has this wheeled case called the Roadie II Hybrid and is best for those who carry many accessories when they go out for a shooting session. With this type of bag, you just need to organize all your gear inside, close it and then pull it behind you while walking. What this means is you take off the burden from your shoulders giving you a hassle-free travel.

But there's still more you need to know about this Tenba Roadie II. It's also considered a hybrid camera case which means it can be used in several ways. When you unzip the rear part, there are harness straps that can be clipped onto the D-rings. Voila, you can then use it as a backpack. You can use it this way in case you need to go to somewhere rugged, bumpy and wet and the wheels won't be of good use.

Meanwhile, those who own compact digital cameras can make good use of this new bag from Jill-e. This camera bag can even serve as a divider for larger bags. It's referred to as an insert in the E-GO collection but it can be a simple standalone bag as well.

The manufacturer says this is ideal for women who want to bring along their cameras and accessories. This insert will enable them to still use their designer or stylish bag while bringing their photographic device. It can be used together with a tote, laptop bag or satchel.

Another brand that has a new camera bag is TrekPak. Its bag insert is unique because of the absence of the common Velcro. What it uses instead is the new pin system for adjusting the dividers. This makes it easy to take out what accessories you need fast unlike the Velcro which can stick and hard to pull apart. The pins used in TrekPak's new bag insert are made from anodized aluminum while the bag is fully padded.

Finally, Timbuk2 has its snoop camera messenger bag that's easy to carry around. It may look cool but you can be sure that your gear will be fully protected as the bag is fully padded. The bag can fit in a camera, its lenses and batteries. It can even carry a tripod using the adjustable straps on the bottom part. If you're not bringing your camera, you can always remove the padded inserts and use the bag as a classic messenger.

Now, you have more choices this 2012. Whether it's for personal use or as a gift, you can get one of these useful bags.

For information about digital camera accessories, visit 42photo.com, New York's legendary camera store in business for over 40 years.

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